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Correctly sizing your PV strings

The essentials before wiring your panels to a hybrid inverter: the six points that make the difference between a system that performs well for 25 years and an inverter destroyed on the first frosty morning.

❄️ Cold voltage: the most critical point

A panel's voltage rises as the temperature drops. The Voc value on the datasheet is measured at 25 °C — but on a clear winter morning at −10 °C, each panel can deliver 10 to 15% more. Multiplied by the number of panels in series, this rise can exceed the inverter's maximum allowed voltage (Vdc max) and damage it permanently — a failure mode that is usually not covered by the warranty.

That's why the calculator uses your city's 20-year cold record: always size for the worst winter morning, not the average.

🎯 Stay within the MPPT range, even in summer

Conversely, in hot weather (a roof in midsummer can reach 60–70 °C), panel voltage drops. If the string voltage falls below the inverter's MPPT lower threshold, it drops out or underperforms — right when sunlight is at its peak.

The rule: the string must stay within the MPPT range both hot and cold. If the recommended range shown by the calculator is narrow or non-existent, change the number of panels or the panel model rather than forcing it.

🔗 Series or parallel? Voltage vs. current

In series, voltages add up and the current stays that of a single panel. In parallel, it's the opposite: voltage stays the same but currents add up — and each MPPT has a current (Imp) and short-circuit (Isc) limit to respect.

Slightly exceeding the max Imp current isn't destructive (the inverter just clips output, losing a bit of production), but exceeding Isc max is dangerous for the electronics. Also check that the number of parallel strings doesn't exceed what the MPPT input can physically accept.

🔌 DC cable: aim for a 1% voltage drop

Every meter of cable loses a bit of voltage, and therefore production — continuously, for 25 years. Good practice is to stay under a 1% drop on the DC side. The calculator gives you the standard cross-section to buy (4, 6, 10 mm²…), accounting for the round trip of the current.

Only use double-insulated solar cable (H1Z2Z2-K), UV-resistant, with MC4 connectors of the same brand on both ends — mixing brands is the leading cause of overheating and electrical arcing on the roof.

⚠️ The most common mistakes

  • Mixing different panels in the same string: the current aligns with the weakest one, so you lose the difference.
  • Putting two orientations on the same MPPT (east + west): each orientation deserves its own MPPT, otherwise the power point is a poor compromise.
  • Sizing with the standard temperature (25 °C) instead of your local cold record.
  • Ignoring partial shading: a chimney shading a single panel penalizes the whole string — consider optimizers only on the affected panels.
  • Under-sizing the cable to save a few dollars, and losing 2–3% of production for 25 years.

🛡️ Safety and paperwork: don't skip them

Hardware side: an accessible DC disconnect switch, a DC surge arrester (required depending on cable length and lightning-strike risk in your area), and fuses per string once you have 3 or more strings in parallel.

Paperwork side (requirements vary by country — the following applies in France): prior notification to the local council in most cases, a self-consumption agreement or grid connection request with the local grid operator (Enedis in France), and an official pre-connection inspection certificate (Consuel in France) for any grid-tied installation. This calculator's results help you prepare the file, but they don't replace a professional's sign-off — check your own country's equivalent requirements.

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